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Metroll Newcastle
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CLIMATE CONTROL ROOFS » SolarSpan® » INSTALLATION

 
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SolarSpan® PDF

SolarSpan® Installation

These brief outline hints are not meant to be the only way or even the best way to build your SolarSpan® patio. Your feedback would be welcome.

Before you touch the SolarSpan® panels, carry out points #1 – 3.

  1. Remove the house gutter. Fit an extension flashing under existing house roof. Fit receiver channel as per engineer specifications up under the previously fitted extension flashing. SolarSpan® panels are 1 metre cover per panel. If you have the rear receiver channel at exactly 1-metre increments cut side flap off as per point 7 below. If you require slightly more width in your patio, leave more of the overflap on and adjust inside the Side Barge/Side Receiver Channel. Discuss this with your supplier, as longer rear receiver will be required.
  2. Fit support beam or beams allowing a minimum of 2° pitch (35mm per metre) from the bottom of the receiver channel to the top of the beam/beams.
  3. If the side of the patio roof is to start against a wall or fascia of the house, fit the side barge flashing/side receiver channel from the rear receiver channel and out over the beam/beams. If the patio roof is coming off the back wall or fascia only the side barge flashing can be fitted after all of the panels have been fitted.

    Now to the SolarSpan® panels.
  4. When moving panels off the pack ensure that they are never dragged. Always lift the panel vertically off the pack of panels.
  5. Prepare a pair of carpenter’s trestles by taping some polystyrene to the top surface.
  6. Lift the first panel off the pack and place it with roof side up on the polystyrene taped to the trestles.
  7. On the side of this panel trim the overlay off the top sheet leaving approximately 30mm of metal out from the polystyrene. This 30mm is turned up to dam the side of the panel (see diagram 1).


    Diagram 1
  8. Turn up or dam the rear pans of the panel with a ‘turn up tool’ or a tool similar to a wide jaw multigrip or a large shifting spanner (300mm) (see diagram 2).


    Diagram 2
  9. Throw a soft blanket or quilt over the beam/beams where the first panel will be in contact with the beam/beams.
  10. Turn the panel over on the trestles; remove the core strip/plastic completely from the underside of the panel. Have your assistant touch the panel to short out the static electricity.
  11. Turn the panel back over (now roof side up) and place the cutback end (gutter or low end) on to the covered beam/beams and fit male joint side of panel into the side barge/side receiver channel (case scenario 3(a)) and push back into the rear receiver channel.
  12. Square off this first panel to suit the job (i.e. Square off the house or off the beam/beams) and pin with a screw fixing in the top and underneath (receiver channel end) to hold it square and in place.
  13. Prepare the second and subsequent sheets as per #7-9. Also, on the overlap flap of the top sheet, cut the corner off, at the receiver channel end, so that it does not interfere with the turnup on the top of the previous panel.
  14. Move the blanket covers over the beam/beams to where the next panel will contact the beam/beams. With a person at each end of the panel place the overlay flap of topskin over the previously fitted panel and with the panel at approximately 45 degrees pull it down and engage the male interlock into the female interlock on the ceiling side of the previous panel. This may work first time or you may have to adjust your pressure down at each end of the panel to ensure that it happens. To be sure that you have been successful, the ceiling join should be close to a perfect “V” joint, with little or no flat of the male interlock showing.
  15. Slide this panel towards the house into the receiver channel. Fix each panel top and bottom as they are fitted into place.
  16. After all panels are fitted, fit the barge/barges, the fascia, gutter and downpipes.

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